What is a tube fly?
A tube fly is a highly effective fly design originally created in the late 1930s by Scottish innovator Alexander Wanless. Wanless began tying flies on thin lead tubes to develop a lightweight, castable bait he could use on a spinning rod with a fixed-spool reel.
What started as a practical experiment has since evolved into one of the most important developments in modern salmon and steelhead fishing.
Today, tube flies are favored worldwide for their versatility, durability, and superior hooking efficiency. Because the hook is not fixed to the fly body, anglers can choose different hook sizes, styles, and rigging methods—making tube flies adaptable to a wide range of rivers, species, and conditions.
In Sweden’s Lagan River, tube flies continue to play a major role in successful salmon fishing. Many fish are caught on traditional fly gear, but an even larger number are taken on spinning tackle. When fished on spinning gear, the tube fly is typically presented close to the riverbed, swinging behind a weight on a short trace to trigger strikes.
Whether used for Atlantic salmon, steelhead, sea-trout, or other migratory species, the tube fly remains one of the most efficient and innovative fly designs available today.
Tubes for tube fly
In its simplest form, the tube is merely the vessel that carries the fly pattern—hair, feather, and hook. But the tube itself, with the way it moves and displaces water, becomes an active and alluring component in the overall tube fly design. This hydrodynamic behavior can be used strategically and creatively by the fly tier.
On the right: The FlashBack Bug is a classic steelhead wake tube fly, intentionally designed to exploit the tube’s buoyancy and shape to keep the fly riding high on the surface.
Yes, the same pattern could be tied directly on a hook…
But it would not behave the same.
On a tube, the fly wakes and skates differently—giving it a livelier, more controlled action that steelhead respond to.
The difference is subtle but significant, and it highlights why tube flies have become such a powerful platform for modern salmon and steelhead patterns.
Tube fly patterns – in the future
We believe that tube flies represent the future of modern fly design—especially as more anglers begin to understand the full potential of the many different tube types available today. Tubes offer flexibility, balance, and action that traditional long-shank hooks simply cannot match.
Large rodent-style patterns, such as this Tube Rat from our shop, benefit enormously from being tied on a tube rather than a hook.
The tube version is much lighter, easier to cast—even on lighter rods—and produces a more natural swim.
And because the tube fly is not built on a long, rigid hook shank, anglers experience fewer lost fish caused by leverage during the fight.
For big flies, surface patterns, and modern steelhead or salmon presentations, the tube fly platform offers clear advantages that more and more anglers are now discovering.
Tube Designed for Tube Flies
Tube fly-tying equipment is a specialized and essential part of any fly-tying kit. Across Europe, many fishing shops carry an extensive selection of tubes and other gear specifically made for tube flies.
Most of these tubes are made from durable plastics such as PE (Polyethylene) or PA (Aliphatic Polyamides). These materials offer the right combination of strength, flexibility, and smoothness to allow flies to slide freely on the tube while maintaining their shape and action in the water.
Whether you’re tying salmon, steelhead, or rodent-style tube flies, choosing the right tube material is a crucial step toward achieving optimal performance.
With an annual worldwide usage of approximately 80 million tons of Polyethylene, it’s not unusual to find tubes in fishing tackle shops that were originally designed for purposes completely unrelated to tube flies. Similarly, creative anglers often discover tubes outside of traditional fishing shops that work perfectly for fly-tying projects.
On the right: A 2 ½ inch Danish seatrout Commotion tube fly, designed for nocturnal fishing.
This pattern features a soft cone at the front and plastic beads along the body, creating a pushing and enticing action in the water that triggers strikes from seatrout.
Exploring different tube materials and sizes opens up a world of possibilities for tying salmon, steelhead, and seatrout tube flies—allowing anglers to fine-tune weight, action, and presentation for any fishing scenario.
The cotton swab is a surprising but effective example of a tube that can be repurposed as tubing for tube flies. However, like commercially available tube-fly tubing, cotton swabs vary widely in quality and characteristics.
Some cotton swabs may split or bend easily, while others might float naturally—a unique feature that can be leveraged to create an extraordinary and innovative tube fly.
Experimenting with unconventional tubes like this allows fly tiers to explore new actions, buoyancy, and presentation styles, expanding the possibilities for salmon, steelhead, and seatrout tube flies.
Tags: tube fly, tubes for tube fly, tubefly materials, creative tube fly tying, cotton swab tube, innovative tube fly, salmon tube fly, steelhead tube fly
The right tube for the job
Fishing a full season for Atlantic salmon or steelhead can be a technically demanding pursuit, requiring both experience and specialized gear. Choosing the right tube is a key part of that equation.
On the right: A salmon caught on a Garry tube fly tied on a 1 ½ inch copper tube. When fishing, the hook is held securely in place by a hook guard made of soft plastic tubing, tied to the rear of the copper tube.
This setup allows the tube fly to slide freely on the leader when a fish is hooked, improving hook-up rates and reducing leverage issues. Using the right tube material and size ensures optimal performance for both salmon and steelhead tube flies.
The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Tubes
It’s rare for tube manufacturers to provide detailed information about their products. As a result, anglers and fly tiers often need to do their own technical research to identify the right material for their tube flies.
Understanding the differences in flexibility, durability, buoyancy, and surface finish can make a huge difference in how your tube fly performs in the water. Experimentation and careful selection are key to achieving the best action, presentation, and hook-up rates for salmon, steelhead, and other species.
Here is a few things to look (out) for
Buy a straight tube for big flies.
Tubing is often stored on giant spools and sold by the kilo, only to be cut into lengths and resold to anglers. Over time, some tubing may retain slight curvatures or impressions from storage.
For fly tiers, this is a concern. When tying long tube flies, any bend in the tube can affect the fly’s action and may even cause your leader to twist. We strongly recommend avoiding pre-curved tubing for big flies. Starting with a straight tube ensures better presentation, improved fly performance, and a smoother, more reliable fishing experience for salmon, steelhead, and other large tube fly patterns.
Some Tubes Crack in Cold Weather
Some Tubes Crack in Cold WeatherTube flies are often the go-to patterns when fishing in harsh conditions, such as cold temperatures, strong currents, and heavy leaders. These conditions put additional stress on your flies—and the tubing itself.
It’s important to tie your flies on tubing that can withstand both temperature fluctuations and mechanical wear. However, some rigid tubes may still crack in cold weather, requiring careful selection and testing before tying your patterns.
Above left: A tube marketed as a Scandinavian tube fly tube was placed in the freezer for 5 minutes. When I tried to insert a hook afterward, it cracked, demonstrating the risk of using brittle tubing in cold conditions.
Avoid Tubes That Change Colour When Bent
When a tube changes colour as you bend it, this is a sign that the material has high memory. Tubes with high memory often struggle to return to their original shape after bending—such as when a fish takes the fly in its mouth.
Using a tube with this property can affect the action of your fly, reduce presentation quality, and potentially lead to twisted leaders. For consistent performance and better fish handling, always choose tubes that retain their shape and maintain structural integrity under stress.
Too hard tube – to put hooks into
If you rely on putting the hook inside the tube… avoid buying too rigid tubing as this could result in troublesome positioning or repositioning of the hook as the material might not accommodate the hook – Some hard tubes may also split when under pressure and used in cold water (2 – 5 degrees Celsius – 35 – 41 degrees Fahrenheit) –
As a general rule, you can check if your tube is suitable to be used as a place to put your hook – by squeezing the tube firmly between your thumb and index fingers – If you can ovalize the tube slightly…and then have it fall back into its original round shape then` you could have the right tube for the job.
Heavy tube flies
Heavy Tube Flies
Weighted tubes are ideal for fishing in fast water, allowing your fly to reach the bottom quickly and maintain contact. They are especially useful during colder parts of the season—October to November—as well as during the early months of the fishing season, January to March.
Above right: Classical Slipstream tubes from Veniard, England. Over time, the tubing inside the metal tube (the inner tube) can become frayed or damaged. To replace it, simply cut the ends, pull out the old inner tube, and insert a new piece. For this task, our 1.8-millimetre tubing works perfectly.
The tube fly is an English invention, created by Mr Alexander Wanless in the early 1930s. Its innovative design quickly made it a popular choice among fly tiers, providing unmatched flexibility and performance for salmon and steelhead flies.
Some of the first tube flies created by Alexander Wanless were tied on oblong lead barrels. Wanless used these flies with small hooks on his light spinning gear, pioneering a technique that combined delicate presentation with effective hooking power.
Even today, heavy sinking tubes remain an important part of fly fishing. Atlantic salmon anglers frequently use weighted tubes throughout the season to get their flies down in fast water and maintain proper depth.
Left: A special tool for cutting thin-diameter tube, essential for precise fly-tying and proper tube preparation.
Not Possible to Buy Tiny Brass Tubes? Cut Your Own!
If small brass tubes aren’t available, make your own! Using a special tube-cutting tool, I have cut a large brass tube into several small, heavy microtubes.
In the background: a tiny Frances Fly tied on one of these micro brass tubes, with tubes fitted with our hook guard for secure and reliable fishing.
Custom-cut microtubes allow fly tiers to create precise, weighted patterns for salmon, steelhead, and seatrout, providing better action and hook-up efficiency in challenging conditions.
Heavy tube flies in many shapes and sizes.
Heavy Tubes for Fast European Rivers
Scandinavia and Scotland are blessed with fast-running rivers, and European anglers have developed a wide variety of heavy tubes to meet the challenges of seasonal salmon and steelhead fishing. Most are designed for summer sport, fished on a floating line with the fly presented approximately 10 inches below the surface.
Many of the microtubes and the conehead pictured on the right are specifically designed for this type of presentation, allowing precise control and consistent action in strong currents.
We plan to showcase each individual tube from the photo on this page over the coming year.
See another page on Fishmadman
Tungsten Tubes – The Heavy Boy in the Class
When it comes to getting your fly down to the depths, weight alone isn’t enough—density is the key factor.
Tungsten tubes have a density nearly 200% higher than an equivalent copper tube, making them a true depth charge for fast-water fishing. These heavy tubes allow anglers to reach deep currents quickly, maintain precise fly presentation, and improve hook-up rates for salmon, steelhead, and other species.
Light tube fly
For many Scandinavian anglers, tube flies are the preferred choice for salmon and trout fishing. The tube fly offers unmatched convenience and versatility, making it easy to adapt to different fishing situations.
Most importantly, the tube fly allows anglers to fish both big and small patterns effectively, ensuring proper presentation in all types of water—whether fast-running rivers, calm pools, or challenging conditions.
Tying a tube fly for summer conditions
When summer fishing calls for a tiny fly that works in the subtlest currents, a micro-tube fly is often the best choice. Compared to a small single-hook pattern, a micro-tube fly may appear larger in volume and even weigh slightly more, but it behaves very differently in the water, offering improved presentation and action.
Left: Three miniature tube flies tied on different tubing. The top two patterns are tied on relatively soft tubing from a BIC ballpoint pen. Hooks in the picture are #18, while a comparable single hook is #14.
Tubes for Riffling Hitch flies
Fishmadman Specialty Tubes for Riffling Hitch and Wake Flies
At Fishmadman, we specialize in tubes designed specifically for Riffling Hitch and Wake flies. When we started, there was no tube on the market good enough for the job—so we designed the perfect tube for these patterns.
Our tube features low memory, allowing it to withstand significant mechanical abuse before breaking, ensuring durability and consistent performance.
You can buy this tube from our shop
How we make our wake flies on Riffling Hitch tube
The Hook Guard or Hook Rest
The hook guard (or hook rest) is an extension of the tube that holds the hook in place while casting or fishing the fly. While not strictly essential for all tube flies, opinions vary among anglers regarding its necessity.
At Fishmadman, we value the hook guard and use it on many of our tube flies. It’s a foolproof solution that greatly reduces the chance of tangles and ensures smoother casting and presentation.
Above left: Soft tubing glued to a thin hard tube with UV glue—a neat and effective method to attach a hook guard to even the smallest tube flies.[hr]
Loose or Fixed Hook Guard?
Some anglers prefer to keep the hook guard loose in their fly box, attaching it only when they plan to use the fly. With this method, the lower part of the tube fly remains free of material, allowing the hook guard to slide on easily. The main advantage is the ability to replace the hook guard if it becomes damaged.
This system works particularly well on smaller flies, such as these Stoat Tail patterns tied on #1/2 aluminium tubes from Veniard.
Our 2.2 / 1.2 hook guard is perfectly suited for smaller flies like these, providing a secure, tangle-free solution without compromising the action of the fly.
Swinging Hook Guard
Scandinavian anglers often use this ingenious swinging hook-guard system to allow the hook to swing freely behind the tube, rather than being held rigidly in place.
Above: A version from German Propeller Fly, designed to accommodate hooks from #8 to #12. This setup provides natural hook movement while reducing tangles and improving hook-up efficiency in the water.
Tie-Down of Hook Guard
When tying dry flies on a tube, we recommend using a hook guard on your pattern. A properly fixated hook greatly reduces tangles and ensures smoother casting.
To secure the hook guard, start by making a collar on the tubing, as shown in the photo to the left. Heat the tube near a naked flame—with quality PA tubing, it will melt quickly and form a perfect small collar to hold the hook guard firmly in place.
Cut the Hook Guard at a Square Angle
Here, I’ve started on a bigger fly using our 1.8 mm. hard tube . I’ve slipped on our larger 3.0/1.8 mm hook guard, but notice that I’ve cut the hook guard at a 45-degree square angle.
This method reduces the amount of tie-down needed to secure the hook guard, creating a cleaner and more efficient setup for larger tube flies.
Right: I have slid the 2.2/1.2 hook guard onto my 1.4 hard tube.. You can clearly see the collar beneath the hook guard.
To finish, tie the end of the hook guard and secure it with super-glue or lacquer. This ensures a durable, tangle-free setup for your tube fly.
Finish of with super-glue or lacquer
The hook guard works as an
The Hook Guard Works as an Integrated Part of the Body
One fly I’ve used repeatedly over the years is this 1/5 # (0.5 cm) micro-conehead tube fly. I tie it in all kinds of colours and patterns, and it’s always a pleasure to tie and fish.
Though it may look intricate, it’s actually a very easy fly to tie. Part of the success of this micro tube fly comes from its semi-see-through body, which is achieved by running the hook guard onto the body of the fly.
Check out this super fly on our page dedicated to the Kinaber Killer
Building the tube fly
Modern tube flies in Scandinavia are often constructed from multiple sections of tubing, and getting the dimensions and materials right is a bit like building with LEGO.
Here, I’ve assembled our 1.8 mm. hard tube with our 3.0/1.8 mm Riffling Hitch tube. In this case, the Riffling Hitch tube acts as a hook guard, but a soft tubing hook guard can also be added to the rear to accommodate larger hooks, such as the Owner Chinu # 1/0 shown in the photo.
Coneheads are commonly added to the front of the fly and secured with a tiny drop of glue or Zap-A-Gap. Finally, a collar is formed on the tube by carefully heating it with a naked flame, completing a durable, tangle-free tube fly ready for action.
Specially Designed Tube Fly-Tying Needles
Over the years, we’ve happily used regular sewing needles for tube fly tying and even promoted this inexpensive solution through our shop. However, finding suitable needles for the tubing we sell has always been a challenge.
To solve this, we decided to produce our own design of tube fly-tying needles, tailored specifically for tube fly work.
We now offer four different needles, designed to fit the full range of tubing we carry—from the thinnest 1.4 mm tubing to the largest 3.2 mm tubing used for big patterns like Sunray Shadow flies.
The Riffling Hitch Needle
A specially made needle designed for short tube flies, such as Riffling Hitch flies and bottle tubes.
This needle is specifically made for our 3.2 mm Hitch tube, with an inside diameter (Ø) of 1.8 & 2.0 mm. The total length of the needle is 62 mm, ensuring precision and ease when threading short tubes.
See it in the Fishmadman shop
The Thin Needle
Designed for tiny tube flies or metal tubes with inner-lining tubing, including micro bottle tubes.
This needle fits our thinnest 1.4 mm tube with an inside diameter (Ø) of 0.7 mm. The total length is 62 mm, perfect for precision threading on the smallest tube fly patterns.
See it in the Fishmadman Shop
The Medium Needle
Designed for small to medium tube flies or metal tubes with inner-lining tubing, including bottle tubes.
This needle fits our 1.8 mm tube with an inside diameter (Ø) of 1.1 mm. The total length is 97 mm, providing excellent control when threading and assembling medium-sized tube flies.
See it in the Fishmadman Shop
The Sunray Shadow Needle
A specially made needle designed for long tube flies, such as Sunray Shadow flies.
This needle fits our 3.2 mm Hitch tube with an inside diameter (Ø) of 1.8 & 2.0 mm. The total length is 115 mm, providing the precision and reach needed for assembling large and complex tube fly patterns.
See it in the Fishmadman Shop
Tube Fly-Tying Supplies
At Fishmadman, we offer tubes specially made for non-toxic, PVC-free tube flies, designed with all the right properties for superior performance. By cutting out the middlemen, our tubes are inexpensive while delivering the best quality available on the market.
All our tubes are made in Denmark, ensuring consistent quality and reliability for your fly-tying projects.
Visit our shop here