What We Learned from Ken Milton in the 1980s
How to Remove Coating From Welded Fly Line Loops
Modern shooting heads and fly lines are better than ever, but one small detail still tends to bother me on many factory-made lines — especially on heavier setups.
The welded loops found on shooting heads and fly lines in AFTM classes #8 and above can sometimes feel unnecessarily stiff and bulky.
Over the years, I have developed a simple little modification that has improved the feel and performance of many of my own shooting heads and fly lines.
It is not complicated, and for me it makes a surprisingly noticeable difference.
Why Remove the Coating From Welded Loops?
Factory welded loops are made to be durable and strong. That part is important.
But in many cases, the outer PVC or nylon coating around the loop becomes thick and stiff. When loop-to-loop connections are added — leaders, tips or shooting lines — the overall connection can become bulky and less streamlined.
This can create extra resistance when the connection travels through the rod guides.
On heavier fly lines and shooting heads, this effect can become even more noticeable.
By removing the coating from the welded section itself, the loop becomes slimmer, softer and much more flexible.
Does Removing the Coating Weaken the Fly Line?
No — not in my experience.
Inside the outer coating you will find the actual braided core of the fly line, typically a strong woven Dacron-style core made from multiple fibers.
This braided inner core is already what provides the real tensile strength of the line.
The modification simply removes excess coating material from the welded loop area. The strength of the core itself remains intact.
How the Process Works
The method is simple:
- Secure the fly line in a household clamp
- Suspend only the welded loop section in acetone
- Allow the coating to soften for approximately 6–8 minutes
- Carefully peel away the softened coating
- Reveal the clean braided inner core underneath
As shown in the images above, it is important that only the welded loop itself is submerged in the acetone — not the full fly line coating.
The process should be done carefully and patiently.
Important Safety Note
When working with acetone or similar solvents:
- Work in a well-ventilated area
- Avoid open flames and sparks
- Use protective gloves if needed
- Avoid inhaling fumes
- Avoid prolonged skin contact
A Personal Modification – Not a Universal Rule
This is not necessarily something every fly angler will want or need to do.
In fact, I originally started doing this simply because I personally felt that some welded loops were too stiff and bulky for the type of fishing I do.
Over time, it became one of those small modifications that I quietly continued doing on many of my own shooting heads and fly lines because I genuinely liked the result.
For me, it creates a cleaner and more flexible connection that passes more smoothly through the guides and gives a more refined overall feel when casting.
I cannot guarantee that everyone will experience the exact same benefits, but in my own fishing this small adjustment has consistently improved the overall feel of heavier fly line systems.
So rather than presenting this as some universal truth, think of it simply as an idea from my own fishing experience — one that may help if you have experienced similar issues with bulky welded loops.
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